Jungle Suprises.

It was time to leave Bangkok and set off further south. Our first experience of sleeper trains was about to take place! We did our first over night journey to Surat Thani before an hour and a half transfer in the back of a pick up truck through the beautiful mountains as we headed to the jungle. Koh Sok is the destination we were headed for. I don't think you can ever get over the awe of the Thai scenery. The beauty is beyond belief. The journey in the pick up truck is one of my most favorite memories. When we got to our accommodation it was a basic hut on stilts, the windows more like large holes - doors for all the bugs. Mosquito nets catered for these though, so not to worry. We could do with the extra air at night time. The shower didn't quite work. The bathroom was more of a zoo for parasites and as our first real experience of jungle life we were left feeling a bit hesitant of the days to come. Showers took quite a bit of time as it involved a routine of filling up a water bottle and pouring it over yourself. As horrible as it felt, we were being served up the life experience we had set off to find.

Our Jungle Home

After setting in to our new jungle home we were taken by a local to visit a waterfall and a monkey cave. We went elephant trekking in the jungle. Elephant trekking was a fun but frightening experience! Our elephant seemed to be quite hungry and kept stopping to eat. However this involves them bending down to reach plants and leaves on the floor and I just assumed we would be catapulted off head first into the jungle. Obviously this was highly if not impossibly unlikely to happen due to the fact we had a seat-belt on and the lovely little Thai boy who was 'driving' our elephant was sat perfectly poised on the elephants head. If he wasn't going anywhere when the elephant was bending down, we were hardly going to either. Once this was realised, seeing the jungle from the height of the elephant was fascinating. The views were unparalleled.
We returned back to the accommodation where there was a small reception area where you could order food as we were in a really secluded area and other options were extremely limited. We spent the rest of the night playing Jenga with the staff before heading to bed after nightfall.

The next morning we headed with a group to James Bond island. This day trip has more pros than cons but a trip to see the island itself it is not a trip I would highly recommend. We drove out of the jungle for around two hours to a port where we transferred into a long tail boat. As first timers seeing the sea (especially by long tail boat) we were once again left speechless by the beauty of the Thai landscape. The sea was as clear as a bath in some areas and a glittering bright turquoise in others. The rock formations that are jotted around the sea are so beautiful they look as though someone has photoshopped them in! We sailed past mangroves, through caves - it was stunning. And then we arrived at James Bond beach which is also named gypsie island. The island itself is very small and is completely over run by sea gypsies with stalls. It is terribly hard to move around without being approached, stall sellers putting their products on you so you can't easily get away. Unfortunately for me the overpopulation and swarms of tourist/traders made for a very claustrophobic atmosphere. When we eventually maneuvered ourselves around the hoards of people we saw the rock that was featured in the James Bond film. We swam out to the rock and back emerging out of the water as though the rock had transformed us into one of Bond's femme fatales. Kidding!

The Group

We headed back to the long tail boat where we were taken to a man made gypsie island completely built out of the sea by stilts. We had lunch here, this was one of the first proper "thai style" meals we had had since we arrived. By that I am referring to a large group sitting down together and sharing a variety of dishes. The fresh fish was plentiful, as you can imagine us being in the middle of the sea. After lunch we explored the small island, it was so fascinating that the community had built a town in the sea and had the provisions they needed without having to rely completely on land. We visited the local school which was a really bizzare experience for us. The island was so small and completely man made. Yet catered well for life of the community. Coming from London, such a big city it was clearly strikingly different.

Arriving at the sea gypsie island

Playing football in the school playground

Koh Sok had definitely not rang anything true to previous expectations. Jungle life was slow, quiet and simplistic. Yet breathtaking and inspiring. The stark contrast from city life was a shock at first but you soon come to respect the differences and thoroughly enjoy the loss of time keeping and schedules.

We headed back to the jungle for our last afternoon / night still taking in all of the scenery. Early the next morning it would be time to set off for the islands on the east side. Our first stop was to be Koh Samui.

Caesar Salads in Thailand

Later on that day after the ‘wild’ experience we had previously had we met a man outside the hotel who was heading down to Khao San Road. He asked if we wanted to go with him so we thought why not! And then he suggested we share a tuk tuk and we had a mild freak out…but it was fine! So we head down to Khao San road and this is when it really seems to be alive! The sun has set and the tourists/travellers are out! We went to the roof top bar where they have various people playing acoustically and get the crowd singing along to bands such as Oasis, Kings of Leon and U2. Whilst it is throughly enjoyable to sit and listen to the amazingly performed music the experience is made so much better by sitting along the side of the bar where you are able to look down upon Khao San Road. A birds eye view of the swarms of people, the stalls and the street food accompanied by the atmosphere of the bar is just an unforgettable experience.

So we’re chilling with Paul the Australian man from Canberra who tells us a story of two girls he met in Samui. They apparently had enjoyed Thailand so much that they decided to stay and had begun getting family members at home to sell possessions for them so they had enough money to continue their lifestyle out here for as long as possible. Understandable. Paul went on to say that he thought it was ridiculous that they wanted to do this as he had asked them if they knew how to say hello in Thai and apparently they were clueless. So then we had a very minimal Thai lesson from Paul, and then a geography lesson on the town planning in Canberra before he suggested we went and ordered some food. 

And this was the point he ordered a caesar salad as he said he didn’t trust the food. Pot calling kettle black? No? To this day Emma and I are still completely baffled! It is understandable if the food is not to your acquired tastes but Paul informed us he does like to indulge in Thai food back in the land of OZ. He just didn’t want to actually eat it in Thailand. Now, I am still really confused. Surely you would want to eat the food of the locals whilst you are in their country rather than eat what you eat at home?!  As James Michener famously said - “If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home.”  I’m not going to pass judgement too harshly as I can not say what Paul did on his two week trip to Thailand, but I can’t help thinking he came in search of a beach similar to one he could of found towards the bottom of the east coast of Australia and to enjoy his own customs on a new patch of land. And not to mention we were provided with yet another con to add to the list for Australia!

Khao San!

We decided our first trip out into Bangkok was one that is probably going to be pretty obvious. We decided to head to the swarming tourist hot-spot Khao San Road. After the whole jet lag 7/11 palaver we were on a search for food! 

Heading out of the hotel the concierge told us that it should not cost us more than 30b. Poor little unsuspecting us! Expecting to be taken where we ask to be taken. Khao San Road was “closed” this afternoon. We should go and see ‘Big Buddha’ and go to the Grand Palace and get some custom made clothes. After about five minutes of huffing and puffing, awkward, scared glances at one another as if to say “what the hell are we supposed to do” we stepped into the tuk tuk. 

This is no lie when I say we had been in the tuk tuk for about twenty minutes when he pulled over and and was like go in there and see if you want some custom made clothes. Umm..no we don’t want any clothes we want food. We want to go to Khao San Road! Why can’t we go where we want we asked in a desperate state of despair. I love food. Live to eat…all that shizz! It was running into 36 hours since we landed and still no food. So we had the whole guilt trip laid upon us “If you go in there and look, you can just pretend to look and then I can get a gas coupon and feed my family and then I’ll take you to where you want to go” FINE, we thought, we have to now don’t we!? 

We walked in and a group of people with books and books of materials and design ideas flocked towards us. What do you want, what are you interested in, what colours!?!?!?!?!?!?!? Claustrophobic would describe the situation perfectly. We don’t really want anything we replied, just thought we’d have a look….and with that, knowing we had no interest in parting with our money on this afternoon, we were hurried towards the door. 

Back out from the dark air conditioned room to the hard hitting humidity we were greeted by a very unimpressed, angry tuk tuk driver. Why did you do that?! Why don’t you want anything?! Go back in and have another look you might change your mind! We were having none of this anymore, so he turned around and drove down the road to take us to the originally requested destination. 

And then he pulled over.

 Two minutes down the road.

 And told us to get out. 

So we did. 

Because that was enough drama for one afternoon, and we didn’t want it to progress to anything further.

With no desire to ever get in a tuk tuk ever again we began to retrace the tuk tuk drivers route down the busy roads of Bangkok. It was like a harrowing, more exotic version of Hansel and Gretal. The humidity in Bangkok is so consuming, with no idea where the hell we were, no water, and still no food we walked the streets and were treated to some views which we probably wouldn’t of seen if this whole event hadn’t of happened. Every cloud! 

After a forty minute walk of retracing the route we had come, dripping with sweat, as attractive as we could ever be, we finally decided to pull over a pink taxi for the little bit left we had to go. Thankfully we were taken to where we wanted to go. And it was definitely worth the wait. And the hassle.

We had a lovely afternoon walking up and down. And back down and then up again. Trying to take it all in, but the experience was different every time. We later met a girl and over heard her say to someone else we were with whilst buying pad thai from a street stall “Yeah Khao san is pretty cool but once you’ve walked up in about two times it gets really boring.” I remember disagreeing at the time as its completely different every time. I understand why people may not like it all too much. Its hot, its busy, it can be quite dirty – but aren’t most major cities?! If its your first time out of the western culture it may come as a big shock to your system. I know many people who have been to Bangkok in passing and immediately come to the assumption that they do not like Thailand. Personally I think it is a massive shame. I can understand how it may not be your scene but it is an experience definitely worth having and you will come back with something memorable and enjoyable I’m sure. Anyway, Bangkok is just the start!

(I’d just like to point out that although we were really frustrated with the tuk-tuk driver, I am not angry. It is their job and we were non the wiser at the time. Obviously we now know that you probably should get a tuk tuk with a yellow number plate as they are not government regulated like the first one we took. And you should probably be a tiny bit more clued up than we were. But our experience of first hand learning is a good memory now in retrospect.)

Breakdowns and Jetlag!

Stepping off the plane, I didn’t have a clue what to expect. I hadn’t done an awful lot of research if i’m being completely honest. I’d researched Australia since I knew it existed and I still didn’t know what to expect, or rather, the expectations I had fell rather short. But thats another story for another day. Before jetting off the runway of heathrow terminal 4 I had a major freak out. The day I left I was calm and collected…this was it…it was super exciting! The two weeks before…major nervous breakdown.

I don’t really recall having a big freak out towards the build up. My friend Skye lived in Thailand for four years previously and told me many a wonderful story about what I was to expect and experience. She can remember me deciding I no longer wanted to go, and so do my parents…but I look back and think, what?! I didn’t want to go? Don’t be silly I had the most amazing time of my life. Obviously that has overtaken my memory from before I left, when I decided the the big wide world probably wasn’t for me. I couldn’t have been more wrong really could I? Luckily I changed my mind.

So we stepped off the plane, the humidity hit me like nothing had ever before. The “end of the walkway” announcements that seemed to be stuck on repeat are one of the first things that stick in my mind from that moment. Getting into a taxi we headed into the heart of Bangkok. The traffic was painful, but we didn’t notice, we were soaking in our new surroundings. Skyscraper after skyscraper were towering over us, pink taxi’s bumper to bumper with bikes sneaking innbetween. The smells, the heat and the sights were immense. Emma and I looked at each other and just knew - we were going to love it here!

Our hotel was one we had pre-booked for the first two nights. It was cute, and the poshest room we stayed in probably for the whole trip. Greeted with cold drinks and flannels we were shown to our room with a delightful little balcony and an old school tv. We showered and slept. Jetlag is a bitch!

When we awoke, it was dark, it was late, and we were starving! We rang room service and it was too late so the concierge suggested we ventured to 7/11. Just where was 7/11? Well as you come to learn 7/11 is on every street corner you stumble round. But back then, we sat on our balcony in disbelief of how hot it was at 2 o’clock in the morning! Back to sleep we went and awoke at a respectable 3pm. Bloody Jetlag!

The Beginning!

After dreaming of an Australian lifestyle for many years previous we headed into an STA branch in Kingston Upon Thames. Nervous and excited, also completely naive and clueless if I’m going to be fair, we browsed through the brochure as we waited to be seen. We sat down and said we wanted to go to Australia, probably the east coast. The lady in STA laid out a map and made an itinerary – Thailand, Singapore, Australia, Fiji, La, home. Seemed pretty sweet to us. Round the world? Why not!

So thats how it began. Paying a deposit and saving up for the rest. Eeeek! We were so excited! To tell the truth at that moment in time we were mainly looking forward to that OZ adventure we had so longed for. Only five months to go!